A long solo walk can be a mini roller coaster of emotion, with as many twists and turns as the path you’re on. And my 15 mile walk through the countryside around Chichester, taking in the patchwork hills and fairytale woods of the South Downs, was no exception. From the childish pleasure of cracking iced-over puddles with my boots, to the deep peace of the Singleton Forest, the landscape provides a continuously changing and totally absorbing drama. Move over Netflix, this mini-series had me anticipating each new plot development with awe and wonder: elation at seeing a whole county of rolling hills stretch before me as I topped Manorfarm Down; joy as great tits dashed in front of me on the South Downs Way, flitting between bushes; a slither of trepidation as I entered the dark West Dean Woods.
And then there were the ghosts that appeared to take my hand, leading me down long forgotten tracks in my memory. Why, I wondered, when other people crave majestic mountains or fantasy beaches, do I feel most at home, cradled by this domestic Shire-like countryside? Suddenly I had an image of me as a child, welly-booted, wandering alone through the woods and blustery hills of Wiltshire. It always seemed to be muddy on those long, straight Forestry Commission paths with the pine woods receding into thrilling darkness on either side. I have no idea how I never got lost. I just remember arriving back home to those certainties I knew without knowing: that dinner would appear on the table, dirty jeans would be washed, Mum would check if I’d had a bath. That behind all the adventure of my walk was a predictable, dependable structure called my family.
As I push open the door of Cadence Cafe, a welcome pit stop on this Sussex hike, I feel a sharp pain for the missing of those people who, without me noticing, provided the security and opportunity for my days of magical freedom.
If you would like to leave the everyday behind and enter into a world of beauty and reflection, why not try this walk? Who knows, you might find some friendly ghosts of your own.
Want To Do The Walk?
The full route is 15 miles, starting at Litten Gardens park in Chichester and finishing at West Dean, where you can catch the 60 bus back to town.
If you don’t want to start in Chichester there is a 13 mile option as follows:
By Bus: take the 60 Bus from the Cathedral Stop and get off at West Dean. You will finish at West Dean as above and take the 60 bus back to town.
Drive: Park at the Trundle Car Park. From West Dean you can take the path back to the car park
Map: Life is a lot easier when you know where you’re going. I often get lost, especially the first time I try a route, So take a map. I use OS Explorer OL8. Buy it from the Ordnance Survey Online Shop or check out your local Waterstones or Cotswold Outdoors: they both carry a full range of maps. When you buy the paper map you can download the online map to your phone and follow the journey as you go.
Legs can’t take it??
Knock 6 miles off the walk by stopping at the Cadence Cafe and get the 60 Bus back to town. For those in a car, if you parked at The Trundle, it’s just 1 stop to West Dean to link up to the path back to the car park.
Rest Stops
- Horsebox Cafe Horsebox Cafe is at the bottom of Roches Hill (The Trundle) 4 miles into the walk. You can stop for a drink and one of their famous cruffins, as enjoyed by Claire Balding on BBC Radio 4’s Ramblings.
- Cadence Cafe is a bit over halfway round the long route and is a great place for coffee and toasties.
- West Dean Cafe and The Selsey Arms are at the end of the route. West Dean Cafe serves coffee and snacks and the Selsey Arms serves a proper lunch/dinner. Both are good places to recuperate, especially if you’re waiting for the bus. The bus stop back to town is outside The Selsey Arms.
Buses.
Remember to check bus timetables. On Sunday there is only 1 bus an hour, so have a drink at The Selsey Arms if you’ve just missed one!
STAGES
- Chichester to East Lavant
- East Lavant to The Trundle
- The Trundle to Singleton
- Singleton to Cadence Cafe
- Cadence Cafe to West Dean
1. Chichester to East Lavant From Litten Gardens head North up New Park Road (A286), with the old city walls on your left. Follow the road round to your right at the roundabout and almost immediately you will see the West Sussex Literary Trail. Cross the main road to keep heading North along the trail. The trail will bring you out on College Lane. Where College Lane forks take the right hand fork, Fordwater Road. You will soon find yourself on a private road with large houses on the left: perfect if you like snooping at other people’s houses like me! Where the houses end, take the footpath to your left (green signpost). The footpath bends round to the right. Take the right hand path through 3 fields until you reach a road. You have now reached East Lavant. Take the path that runs alongside the road left, and where it comes out at the road, cross the road, keeping left and take the first turn on your right, Lower Road.
2. East Lavant to The Trundle Continue all the way along Lower Road passing beautiful flint and brick cottages typical of the South Downs. Lower Road leads into Pook Lane. Turn right and up ahead you will almost immediately come to a wide path leading off to your left. This is Chalkpit Lane, my absolute favourite path. As you walk up it, don’t forget to look back: slowly a huge vista from Chichester to the sea will open out before you, with the Isle of Wight in the distance. Carry on up Chalkpit Lane until you come to the Car Park and the Horsebox Cafe. Turn right here to walk up Roches Hill or The Trundle, which has a radio mast on the top. You have now joined the West Sussex Literary Trail again.
3. The Trundle to Singleton At the top of the Trundle, walk around the hill, taking in the view to the sea, the by-now tiny Chichester Cathedral Spire and then the undulating track and iconic stands of Goodwood Racetrack, until you are facing North across the South Downs and the two little villages of Singleton and Charlton. At the bottom of the hill there is another car park. Take the path down to this car park. Carefully cross the busy road and continue on down the small single track road that is ahead of you. This road is not busy and has a grass path to walk along on your right. Keep your eyes peeled as on your left you will shortly see the sign posted but rather well hidden path that takes you down the hill to the ancient village of Singleton, nestled in the valley.
4. Singleton to Cadence Cafe My favourite section of the walk! Follow the narrow path round the side of the church. When you are opposite the entrance of the church take the path into the village between houses and out onto the road. Turn right here and you will shortly see a sign saying ‘School’. Head for the school: the footpath you are looking for is on your left, just before the school. Head up steep Hayes Down, through the gate and straight on over a grassy path across pasture. Keep following the path, through another gate, past a little tree and on. The path then does a sharp right: keep following it, through another gate across a field bounded by trees on the left. You now leave the field and be faced with a confusing intersection of paths. In theory you are looking for New Lipchis Way but the signage is a mess with 3 different signposts pointing in vague directions. So here’s what to do. As you pass through the gate to exit the field you will see a broad chalky path leading downhill to your right. Turn right onto this path and immediately on your left you will see 3 more narrow paths. Take the middle one! You will be walking along with a high hedge on the right of the path and fields on your left that slope down to a massive farmhouse with a swimming pool, 2 fields away. (If you pass directly by the house you’re on the wrong path. Go back and try again!)
Continue along and soon you will enter the beautiful Singleton Forest. A perfect spot for forest bathing if you want to rest for 10 minutes. Follow the path crossing several forestry access paths as you go. Finally you will come to an intersection of 5 paths, like a litttle roundabout. Take the 4th path. This path is signposted New Lipchis Way with a weathered post that is easy to miss. Look for the signpost to check you are on the right path.
Keep going on this path: the trees will start to thin and soon you will emerge on the South Downs Way. Turn left downhill and enjoy the breathtaking views of Cocking Down across the valley. You are now 10 minutes away from the Cadence Cafe! Cross the 286 and the Cafe will soon emerge on your left.
5. Cadence Cafe to West Dean I always stop at the cafe for a coffee and something to eat. If you’re feeling tired this is your chance to head back early. The bus stop is 3 minutes away by the car park. So check the timetable and chill out while you’re waiting. For those of you who are up for completing the last 6 miles, head back onto the South Downs Way. The views here are breathtaking and in summer the hedgerows are alive with bees buzzing around the wild marjoram. With a rolling patchwork of hills and woods stretching out to either side as well as ahead and behind, I always feel an elated sense of freedom here, like I’m walking on air. Pass a crazily grinning woman on your journey? That’s probably me!
Quick orientation here is useful. That road you crossed to reach the cafe? That’s the A286 that takes us back to Chichester. So basically this next part of the walk takes us away from this road, then we’ll turn left, so we’re parallel to the road, then finally turn left again so we’re heading down to the road at West Dean to catch the bus. I’m telling you this so that if you get lost, it’s pretty easy to find yourself again. Just head back down to the road which runs along the valley.
As you head West along the South Downs Way, you’ll pass a huge boulder on the left and a path leading off the way. Don’t take it! Then you’ll come to a point where a path crosses the way. Don’t take that either. The third path heading off to the left is the one you want. Follow it all the way through the beautiful West Dean Woods until the path ends in a road. Turn left here. Almost immediately the road veers sharply to the left. At the bend there is another large boulder at the start of your path which runs across the field. This path comes out on the road again. Carry on right downhill, and a little further on is an intersection with a path. Turn right following the sign to Chichester past the gorgeous Hylter’s Farm. Carry on and in a short while you will come to a part where the road turns right. Opposite is a sign for The Monarch’s Way: that’s your path. From here on it’s plain sailing as you follow the path through pretty countryside, crossing the road at one point, all the way to the West Dean. Turn right along the main road a minute or so to The Selsey Arms and your bus stop!
Congratulations – you made it!